Thursday, September 3, 2015

We get wet in Bergen, Norway (August 27-28)



Overlooking Bergen from Mt. Fløyen

We flew from Stockholm/ Arlanda to Bergen, Norway on August 27. Karen gave a talk at the University of Bergen on August 28 and we left Bergen for Oslo on August 29.

I don’t have a lot to say about our time in Bergen. It is an old city that dates back to around 1000 AD and used to be the capital of Norway. It was established as the trading centre for goods from northern Norway, lots of fish, with the rest of Europe. It is now Norway’s second largest city with a population of around 270,000.

Bergen sits right on a fjord (Byfjorden) of course, and is surrounded by seven peaks. It has a mild climate because of the Gulf Stream current. The seven peaks trap the warmer, moister Gulf Stream air, making Bergen a rainy city. If you visit Bergen bring rain gear, as it rains about 230 days/year.

Enjoying a reindeer hotdog in Bergen (Bryggen in the background)
Bergen is probably best known for Bryggen which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bryggen (“the wharf/quay”) is a small area of wooden buildings and narrow alleys that were used as warehouses and stores by traders and merchants. They used to be right on the harbour but there is now a road and sidewalk in front of them. It is my understanding that the present Bryggen was purposefully rebuilt in the medieval style following a fire in the early 1700s. Walking through Bryggen definitely feels historic (I was fascinated by it) although I don’t think the traders of the Hanseatic League who controlled the Bryggen area from around 1300-1600 sold Norwegian souvenirs.

Inside the Bergen train terminal
We got into Bergen early in the afternoon. After checking into our hotel (the Grand Terminus right beside the railroad station; very nice with a great breakfast buffet) and a stop at another grocery store, we walked to and rode up the funicular to the top of one of the seven peaks, Mt. Fløyen. From Fløyen we got an excellent view of Bergen and the surrounding landscape while we ate our picnic lunch. We then walked several of the trails around Fløyen before taking the funicular back down into Bergen. We then decided to tour around the Bryggen area but without much enthusiasm as by this time it was pouring.

After drying off we were taken to dinner by Karen’s welcoming host Anders and his wife Anna to a nice restaurant on the other side of the harbour from Bryggen. Being in Norway, we all had fish for dinner (yummy cod), except Marshall who went with a gourmet burger.

On Friday morning, Karen was up early for her walk to the university. She spent the morning touring the facility and meeting with students and faculty. She gave her talk in the early afternoon and came back to the hotel after that. Marshall and I had a bit of a later start to the day and then went to Bergen’s new, but not geothermally heated, pool. It is a beautiful facility. After putting in a few laps we spent the rest of the time fooling around jumping and diving off the many heights of diving boards, trying to touch the bottom of the 5 metre pool, seeing who could swim the farthest underwater, etc. We had the most fun on the waterslide. Although not particularly long, it records your time and peak speed. We each took about 20 turns seeing if we could set new, fastest times. A very good science lesson as there was lots of discussion of ways to go faster including issues of friction, gravity/weight ratios, terminal velocity, aerodynamics, the drag co-efficient of baggy bathing suits, etc. Fortunately for us, school has already started in Norway so we had the waterslide pretty much to ourselves.

One of Bryggen's narrow alleys
After reuniting with Karen we returned to the waterfront for a better tour, including a stop at the Bergen fish market. We saw more of the Bryggen area this time and only got rained on at the end of our walk. For dinner, Marshall and I later went back to the fish market for fish and chips. Karen wasn’t feeling too well, so she took a pass. It was then earlyish to bed so we could all be bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for our “Norway in a Nutshell” tour that started on Saturday morning.

TROUBLE WITH BERGEN – Bergen gets a lot of tourists, including ourselves. (According to Wikipedia, in 2011 there were over 260 cruise visits to Bergen with 350,000 visitors.) Of course most of them, again like us, mill around the waterfront, Bryggen, and fish market area of the city. Dodging around all of these people definitely took away from the historic and unique flavour of the city. If you go to Bergen, try and visit the waterfront part of the city, which is very interesting and picturesque, in the evening. As Marshall and I found when we went for our dinner of fish and chips, by this time the cruise ships have reboarded or left, the waterfront is much quieter and easier to experience. Should I ever find myself in Bergen again, I would also give myself the time to walk/hike more of the seven peaks as the scenery of the mountains and fjords is stunning.

What Scott thinks of too many tourists

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