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On the road from Reykjavik to Snӕfellsnes
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Today I
was awake at 4 a.m. Unless you have very good blinds, Iceland is not
great for sleeping in the summer because the sun sets really late and rises
very early. Fortunately, a pillow over the eyes is a universally effective
blind.
Saturday
was one of the kind of days I hate when travelling. We had to pack up and drive
back to Reykjavik, get some gas and groceries, move into a new AirBnB
apartment, etc. By the time we got settled in it was 1:30. It just felt like we
were doing routine stuff that we could do at home, only it took longer because
we don’t know where anything is, like the grocery store. We’re in this cool
country with lots to see and do and it feels like we’re wasting time not doing
anything fun. This doesn’t make me the happiest traveller. On top of
this, it was raining and cool, so there was little interest in exploring
Reykjavik on foot. Instead, Karen and I went to the National Museum and left
Marshall at the apartment to enjoy some quiet, on-line alone time.
The museum
was small but informative. After that we did some laundry at the LaundryMat café
(more café than laundrymat) and then we went swimming at the biggest pool in
Reykjavik, which has a cool waterslide. Even at 8:30 it was still very busy. As I said,
not a very exciting day in an exotic locale. Oh well, tomorrow was excellent.
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| Our second apartment in Reykjavik--living the highlife! |
A
LITTLE ICELANDIC HISTORY – Reykjavik and Iceland was settled in 870 after
being discovered earlier by some Vikings who got lost on their way to the Faroe
Islands. Vikings were known for three things; raiding, trading, and farming
(settling). As there was no one to raid or trade with on Iceland, their purpose
for coming in 870 was settlement. Why they chose Iceland over Newfoundland and
Labrador, which they also travelled to, is perplexing to me. The only trees on
Iceland at that time were a species of stunted birch tree. (Only a few stands
remain today.) Compared to the building and fire resources to be found in
Newfoundland, Iceland seems like a rough choice. My thinking is that either the
Beothuk Indians of Newfoundland were not friendly to the Vikings and/or the
distance was too far from Europe to transport livestock and other goods. (Being
Vikings, they returned to raiding in the 1100 and 1200’s. However, most of it seemed
to be restricted to one Iceland clan harassing another Iceland clan.)
What I
found interesting was how skilled the first settlers were. The crafts and other
metal and wood items they made 1100 years ago were very detailed and
functional. They also have a rich and accurate oral and written history of the
settlement of the island. (The Book of Settlements is believed to have been
first written in the early 1100’s.)
Next to
Vikings, the other valuable exports to Iceland during the Settlement period
were sheep and horses. Over the years these have both become unique breeds and
can still be found all over the island—especially sheep which graze right along
the highway. Sheep were particularly important as a source of wool, milk, and
food. Apparently they were hardier than cows, which were also important
livestock but not as ubiquitous.
Reading
about the country's history got me thinking that I would not have wanted to be a woman settler
on Iceland. They would have had a very tough life with little outlets (e.g.,
unlike the men who could look forward to fishing, raiding, and other manly
social activities). The women had to spend a lot of time weaving ells of wool.
One ell of wool measured 1 metre by 50 centimetres, which would take a skilled
weaver about a day to produce. 90 ells, or 90 days of weaving, would buy/trade
you a cow. Add to this the time to clean the wool, card it, and spin it into
yarn, and one cow would be at least a half-year’s work (I estimate). Add to
this the responsibility of raising kids and looking after Viking husbands,
tending gardens and crops, etc. and they would have had very long days.
